On May 11, 1:58=A0am, daveornee <daveornee.397...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
> joseph.santanie...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Wrote:
>
> > On May 10, 8:17*pm, daveornee <daveornee.397...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > mx.forums.cyclingforums.com> wrote:
> > > joseph.santanie...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Wrote:
>
> > > > On May 10, 7:29*pm, Ron Ruff <rruffrr...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
> > > > > On May 10, 9:28*am, "joseph.santanie...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
"
>
> > > > > <joseph.santanie...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
> > > > > > But what about my light wheels that buckle? Should I rebuild
> > those
> > > > 2x
> > > > > > both sides?
>
> > > > > Are they laced heads-in now on the NDS? If not, try that. If
> > they
> > > > are
> > > > > heads-in, then heavier spokes are the only thing that will
> > help...
> > > > but
> > > > > I'd probably just sell them to a lighter rider before trying
> > that.
>
> > > > All my lighter buddies are afraid of tubulars, and even more vain
> > than
> > > > me! The old-school Mavic OR10 rims just look funny to them. Not
> > too
> > > > mention the insanley high spoke count! They do however do a double
> > > > take when I hand them a wheel to feel it's (lack of) weight. And
> > then
> > > > when they find out how much they cost (1/2 their heavier
> > pre-builts)
> > > > they give me a blank stare.
>
> > > > They are heads out now. I'll flip them. If I go with beefier
> > spokes,
> > > > should I replace them all, or just NDS?
>
> > > > Joseph
>
> > > Are you set on retaining those rims in combination with the narrow
> > > spaced hubs?
> > > You can add ~20% stiffness with beefier spokes and heads in
> > orientation
> > > of spokes, but at your weight and power I wonder if it is worth the
> > > effort and costs. * Light weight wheels are fun to show off, but
> > they
> > > don't make much difference to the overall weight of rider + bicycle
> > ...
> > > especially as the rider weight contribution is over 80%.
> > > I would move ahead with the wheels you are working on now so you can
> > > see what they ride like.
> > > Ron Ruff's idea of selling your light weight rider who thinks tubies
> > > are better (or at least worth it). * *There are a small percentage
> > of
> > > riders who have a positive bias for tubulars... and some like the
> > old
> > > style Mavic OR rims too.
>
> > > --
> > > daveornee
>
> > I'm not set on keeping them, but nobody I know is interested in
> > buying, even for cheap. Fixing them is a low priority. I'll try
> > flipping the spokes first (free) and maybe some heavier spokes if I
> > happen across any suitable. If these new aero wheels (Gigantex/Dura
> > Ace) are nice, I may buy some more of those rims and use the AC hubs
> > and those I could sell. Then I'll keep the OR10's for some future
> > unknown project.
>
> > Joseph
>
> Precision adjusted cup & cone bearings like those found on ****mano and
> pre 2007 Campy along with a good steel QR properly adjusted will also
> help keep the wheel in better alignmentunder side loads. =A0The frame
and
> fork also have contributions. =A0Tension balance in the spokes along
with
> precision truing will give the the best possible chance of minimizing
> brake pad rubbing. =A0The large center sections in current hubs from
> ****mano and Campagnolo also make a small but measurable contribution to
> lateral stiffness.
> I don't know how you have your pads adjusted, but I ride with some very
> heavy riders who adjust pads far from the rim to avoid contact. =A0They
> don't have them so far out the bottoming levers when braking happens
> though.
>
> --
> daveornee
My Ultegra/DT-Competition/Deep-V 28/32 wheels do not flex enough to
rub the pads. I have the brakes adjusted to contact at about half
lever travel. That way they don't bottom out, and I have good leverage
and wear room. When I fit the OR10's I need to open the calipers a
bit.
Joseph
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